In a perfect world, we’d think that all women would desire fine over fashion jewellery. That given a chance, women would choose anytime to wear precious pearls rather than simulated ones. But looking back at 20th century fashion history, we find that this wasn’t always the case: Coco Chanel consciously wore faux pearls with her real ones when she could very well wear all precious pearls. The much celebrated necklace of Audrey Hepburn in the 1961 film Breakfast at Tifanny’s were in fact simulated pearls. What these tell us today is that fashion jewellery can make as much a statement as fine ones. And at times, even more so as they can–without reserve–express one’s individuality and sense of self.
In an interview with jewellery expert and author of Fashion Jewellery, Made in Italy Deanna Farneti Cera, she sheds light on what sets fashion jewellery apart.
Shower parts used as a necklace.
Karl Lagerfeld for Chloe, 1983
Rhodium-plated flexible tubing and jet shower hose from which hang segments of rhinestone chain ending with imitation drop pearls
WHAT IS FASHION JEWELLERY?
It is a complement to a dress. Better to say nowadays, it is a complement to a look. Now everyone tends to have a style more than a dress. Fashion jewellery is part of that puzzle –that in its system makes a total look.
Choker necklace
Karl Lagerfeld for Chloe, S/S 1979
Silver-plated metal and simulated pearls
Pearl necklace with tassle pendant.
Sharra Pagano for Moschino, S/S 1991 collection
Simulated pearls in resin mounted on cord to form lacework at the front with central tassel pendant and twisted strands at the back
HOW DID FASHION JEWELLERY, PARTICULARLY SIMULATED PEARLS, EVOLVE?
In 1924, after Coco Chanel stated that an elegant woman in order to be elegant had to diversify her appearance every time she changed her dresses, the mixing of precious and non–precious jewellery among women started. Slowly and easily, fashion jewellery was born. They essentially became a complement to everyday clothes.
Left: Coco Chanel, 1936. Photo by Boris Lipnitzki
Right: Chanel Pearls, Pre-Fall 2014 collection
ON COCO CHANEL’S ROLE…
The fashion jewellery industry had a miraculous start due to Chanel. She, more than anybody else, knew how to exploit simulated pearls. She was brave, intelligent…and modern. She was the first to boldly mix precious and non-precious jewellery. This was at a time when no upper class woman would consider mixing and wearing both. It was a bright and bold move on her part considering at that time, all the couturiers made haute couture, which meant women going to Paris and going through several fittings and measurements. By inventing fashion jewellery, Chanel launched a new item that could be exported, sold with ease and great facility. No longer did a woman need to go to Paris to buy jewellery because they became readily available.
ON THE NECKLACE WORN BY AUDREY HEPBURN IN BREAKFAST AT TIFFANY’S…
It is the most iconic necklace in simulated pearls that you can think of. It’s also the most iconic jewellery piece in fashion history. Most likely, Givenchy had the simulated pearls made for the movie. They are in three colors–gray, creamy white, rose pearls—and in decreasing sizes. One can immediately tell they are simulated because their colors do not exist in nature.
The movie was very important in the fashion jewellery history. It was shot in the 1960’s, at a time when the whole concept of fine jewelry as value belonging to the old society was rejected. The movie showed that times had changed. Audrey Hepburn played the role of a “light” girl or what we call today, a prostitute.The movie was important in the sense that it signaled that everyone had the opportunity to be on stage …that anyone could teach elegance and distinction, even if one was a “light” girl.
WHY WEAR FASHION JEWELLERY TODAY?
Fashion jewellery can dare in shape, color and visual impact more than fine jewellery. You can play in plastic, different metals, glass stones, etc. In simulated pearls, the great advantage is one can play in different colors, even those colors that are not existing in the real world. They can be dyed.
Particularly, fashion jewellery are meant for people who travel a lot, for people who have many occasions to be seen publicly. These people prefer to be at ease and not worry about their jewellery being placed in danger. Especially once you see their jewellery, you have seen it already… it makes more sense for them to wear fashion rather than fine jewellery.
Torsade Necklace.
Al Gingillo. Milan, 2000
White, pink and gray simulated pearls of various shapes and sizes strung with faceted glass beads
YOUR LAST WORDS ON FASHION JEWELLERY…
“Fashion Jewellery is personal. It identifies your style and personality whereas fine jewellery identifies your status.”
Choker
Luciana de Reutern. Rome, c.1962
Pierced metal sheet from which hang strings of round simulated pearls,each terminating in a single large simulated pearl
Ms. Cera’s interview was made possible by the generous cooperation of
American Society of Jewelry Historians
3 Response to The “Fashion Pearl Jewellery”
Comments are closed.
Resources
Very interesting, particularly the shower hose necklace. Honestly, this post makes me feel better about wearing my Chanel pearls and my non- precious ones.. always think they are the poor cousins of real pearls because they are less expensive. But I am in good company knowing Chanel and Ms. Hepburn wore faux by choice.
owowow awesome!
[…] }); Fashion Pearl Jewellery » http:// http://www.marlm.com Above Photo: “Long braid of strings of pearls […]