Estate Pearl Jewellery (Part 1)

Above Piece: Brooch, Natural Brown Pearls set in Platinum and Diamonds. France, 1900. ¬© Albion Art

Estate jewellery is a polite term for previously owned jewellery. They have a unique history, a legacy—serving as witnesses of the greatest design periods of history.  Here, we present one-of-a-kind magnificent estate antique pearl jewellery created in the 18th to early 20th century.

I.  Georgian Period spans from 1714-1837 and is named after the four successive English Kings George I through IV.

Above:  Earrings, gold with natural seed pearls and diamonds. France, 1795-1810 ¬© Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Natural seed pearl jewellery became very fashionable at the beginning of the 19^th century, especially among the growing middle classes. Small pearls were not only less costly, but they were also available in quantity. Seed pearl jewellery, usually less than 2 millimeters in diameter, was considered genteel.  It was considered the ‘most becoming jewellery that a lady can wear”.

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“I only like antique jewelry because I like the stories attached to them. I like to know who was wearing them. It’s the life of people that interests me. Also, they are beautiful.” 

Miuccia Prada

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Victorian Natural Pearl & Diamond Necklace, circa 1850. ($ 85,000 at www.sheilagoldfinger.com)

This magnificent Early Romantic Victorian (1837-1850) necklace contains 7 off-white baroque-drop natural pearls and diamonds. The large expanse of cleavage afforded by the then highly fashionable evening gowns provided the perfect backdrop for these elaborate necklaces.

Swags, garlands, bows, hearts, and tassels were favored motifs in jewellery design during this period.

Extraordinarily versatile, this Grand Mid-Victorian (1860-1880) piece has a fitting that screw onto the back so the piece can be worn as a brooch, or taken off making it a pendant.

During this period, earrings, often with pearl drops, tended to become longer due to hair being worn away from ears.

An antique silver topped gold, diamond and pearl necklace/tiara. Circa 1900. (Price per request at Camilla Dietz Bergeron Ltd.)

Above, this Late Aesthetic Victorian (1885-1901) necklace has a contemporary detachable chain and may be worn as a tiara. Hair ornaments such as tiaras were very popular in this era. In the past, tiaras were symbols of everlasting love, often given by the groom to the bride and eventually, they were worn to display wealth.

To be continued  in Part 2…

Photographs Courtesy of  V& A Museum, Camilla Dietz Bergeron Ltd, Sheila Goldfinger Antique and Estate Jewelry, and  Sandra Cronan Ltd..

Frozen, Silver, nylon, freshwater pearls,
Sam Tho Duong, 2011